Discover the charm of Onyu Pass in Takashima City, Shiga Prefecture! From the history of the Saba Kaido, to the dreamlike sea of clouds and breathtaking autumn leaves, this is a complete guide including access, best viewing times, and important notes.
Introduction
Have you heard of a hidden mountain pass on the border of Shiga and Fukui prefectures, offering panoramic views of連なる mountains and a dreamlike sea of clouds? That is Onyu Pass (おにゅう峠), which has been rapidly gaining popularity among photography enthusiasts and travelers seeking spectacular scenery in recent years. Located in the Kutsuki Oiudani area of Takashima City, Shiga Prefecture, this mountain pass, at an elevation of approximately 820 meters, not only boasts breathtaking and magnificent views, but especially in autumn and winter, you have the chance to encounter a fairytale-like swirling sea of clouds and stunning autumn leaves that dye the mountain peaks in fiery red hues. This place was once part of an ancient road connecting Wakasa and Kyoto, carrying the footsteps of history. This article will take you deep into the world of Onyu Pass, exploring its historical background, the coveted beauty of its sea of clouds and autumn foliage, how to get to this hidden gem, and important considerations when visiting, so you can be fully prepared for a romantic encounter with the sky and colors.
Ancient Road Remains: The History of Onyu Pass and its Connection to the Saba Kaido
Onyu Pass is not just a scenic spot; its location along the path also holds deep historical significance and is related to the famous “Saba Kaido (鯖街道)“.
Footprints of the Saba Kaido
What is the Saba Kaido?: The “Saba Kaido” does not refer to a single specific road name, but rather is a general term for multiple ancient roads used in the past to transport fresh seafood (especially mackerel) from Wakasa Bay (Fukui Prefecture) to Kyoto. These marine products were valuable ingredients for Kyoto, which was far from the sea at that time.
The Role of Onyu Pass: This mountain road connecting Kamikogane, Obama City, Fukui Prefecture, and Kutsuki Oiudani, Takashima City, Shiga Prefecture (including the Onyu Pass section), is considered one of the older routes among the many Saba Kaido routes, and is called “Harihata-goe (針畑越え)”. Compared to the later, more main Wakasa Kaido (via Kumagawa-juku), this route was steeper and more challenging.
Witness to History: Imagine merchants and travelers carrying seafood on their shoulders hundreds of years ago, crossing this mountain range, traveling back and forth between Wakasa and Kyoto, adding a rich cultural and historical color to this mountain road. Although it no longer serves the purpose of transporting mackerel today, walking along this road, you can still feel a trace of the ancient road’s atmosphere.
Sky Mirror and Feast of Colors: Highlights of Onyu Pass’s Spectacular Views
Onyu Pass has gained significant fame in recent years, mainly due to the two major spectacular views that can be observed during specific times: the sea of clouds and the autumn foliage.
Dreamlike Sea of Clouds: As if Stepping into a Fairyland
Viewing Conditions: Seeing a sea of clouds at Onyu Pass requires the right timing and conditions. It usually occurs in the early morning from late autumn to early winter (around late October to early December), and the following conditions must be met:
- High humidity or rain the day before.
- Clear weather in the early morning of the day.
- Weak wind.
- Occurrence of “radiative cooling” (ground heat is lost at night, causing the air near the surface to cool).
Timing of Appearance: When the conditions are met, the valleys are filled with thick white clouds and mist before or just after sunrise in the early morning, forming a magnificent sea of clouds landscape. Looking from the observation point of Onyu Pass, the连なる mountains appear like islands floating on the sea of clouds, a scene as dreamlike and fantastical as being in a castle in the sky.
Viewing Probability: The appearance of the sea of clouds is not guaranteed and requires luck. However, on days in late autumn to early winter, during the early morning hours, and when the above weather conditions are met, the probability of seeing it is relatively high.
Burning Autumn Leaves: An Autumn-Limited Palette of Colors
Best Viewing Period: The best time to see the autumn leaves at Onyu Pass is usually from late October to early November each year.
Color Layers: Due to the high altitude, the autumn leaves here are rich in color, including the red of maple trees, the yellow of zelkova trees, and the orange of other broad-leaved trees, interwoven with evergreen coniferous trees, creating a colorful spectacle.
Co-occurrence of Sea of Clouds and Autumn Leaves: The most coveted scene is undoubtedly encountering the early morning sea of clouds during the peak season for autumn leaves. Fiery red maple leaves peeking out from the swirling sea of clouds, or colorful mountains above the sea of clouds, form an ultimate visual feast, a scene many photographers dream of capturing.
Visiting the Hidden Gem Pass: Access and Important Notes
Onyu Pass is located in a relatively remote mountainous area, and the road conditions are special, requiring extra caution when visiting.
How to Get to Onyu Pass?
Main Method: By Car: Getting to Onyu Pass is almost exclusively possible by car. There are no public bus routes that go directly to the pass summit.
Entrances from Both Sides: Shiga vs. Fukui:
- Shiga Prefecture, Takashima City, Kutsuki Oiudani Side (Recommended): From Kyoto City or Otsu City, take National Route 367 (Saba Kaido/Wakasa Kaido) into the Kutsuki area, then turn onto Prefectural Road 781 (Aso Furuyame Umeki Line) towards Oiudani. The latter part of this mountain road is very narrow, with many hairpin bends, and some sections are difficult for vehicles to pass each other, requiring very careful driving and good driving skills. Most of the road surface is asphalt, but the road conditions near the pass summit may be poor.
- Fukui Prefecture, Obama City, Kamikogane Side: From Obama City, take Prefectural Road 35. A considerable section of the road on this side is unpaved gravel (forest road), with worse road conditions and many potholes, making it unsuitable for regular passenger cars. It is strongly not recommended to drive up the mountain from this side unless you are driving an off-road vehicle and have a thorough understanding of the road conditions.
Parking Information:
- Near the summit of Onyu Pass (near the Shiga and Fukui prefectural border), there is a small amount of parking space along the roadside (can accommodate about 10+ cars).
- During the autumn foliage season or sea of clouds season in the early morning, parking spaces are very, very sought after and are often full before dawn. If you plan to visit during peak times, be prepared that you “may need to park further away and walk” or “may have to give up if you cannot find parking”. Absolutely do not park illegally or obstruct traffic.
- There are no restrooms or other facilities at the pass summit.
【Important!】Winter Road Closure
Prefectural Road 781 (Shiga side) and related forest roads (Fukui side) leading to Onyu Pass are completely closed during winter (usually from early December to late April of the following year) due to snow accumulation, making them impassable for vehicles.
The exact closure and opening dates vary each year depending on snow conditions, so be sure to check the road conditions with the Takashima Civil Engineering Office in Shiga Prefecture or relevant authorities before visiting in winter or early spring.
Best Visiting Season and Time
- Sea of Clouds: Early morning (around sunrise) from October to early December.
- Autumn Leaves: Late October to early November.
- Fresh Greenery: May to June, when the beech forest is lush green.
- Avoid Winter: Roads are closed from December to late April.
Recommended Clothing and Items to Bring
- Clothing: Temperatures can change significantly in the mountains, so it’s recommended to bring a jacket even in summer. Temperatures are very low in the early morning during autumn and winter, so be sure to wear sufficiently warm clothing (down jacket, knit hat, gloves, etc.).
- Shoes: Comfortable and non-slip shoes are recommended for walking.
- Flashlight: If you plan to visit in the early morning to see the sea of clouds, be sure to bring a headlamp or flashlight.
- Drinking Water and Food: There are no shops along the way or at the pass summit, so please bring plenty of drinking water and snacks.
- Camera and Tripod: Essential for capturing the beautiful scenery.
- Patience and Luck: Seeing the sea of clouds requires luck; even if the conditions seem right, you may not necessarily see it.
Nearby Tourist Spots
- Kutsuki Area: Has an old townscape (Kutsuki Market), hot spring facilities (Kutsuki Onsen Tenku), campsites, etc.
- Saba Kaido Related Spots: Such as Kumagawa-juku (Fukui Prefecture).
- Related Article: Senbangei Complete Guide: Strange Rocks and Valleys and Hidden Ancient Temples in Kamiichi Town, Toyama
Conclusion
Onyu Pass, this ancient mountain road spanning the border of Shiga and Fukui prefectures, has become a hidden gem in the hearts of many photographers and nature lovers in recent years due to its dreamlike sea of clouds in the early mornings of autumn and winter and its stunningly colorful autumn leaves. While the journey there is full of challenges, with narrow and winding mountain roads testing driving skills, and the magnificent sea of clouds being a matter of chance encounters, when you overcome the difficulties and stand at the pass summit, witnessing the swirling clouds or the burning autumn colors spread out before you, all the hardships will turn into deep awe and emotion. If you love exploring lesser-known places and are eager to chase breathtaking 순간 beauty, then Onyu Pass is definitely worth preparing thoroughly and bravely visiting.
Are you also attracted by the beauty of the sea of clouds or autumn leaves at Onyu Pass? Are you ready to challenge the winding mountain road to find this hidden gem? If you found this guide helpful, don’t forget to share it with friends who also love exploring spectacular scenery!
